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Returning to Capri, Axel Munthe’s secret paradise

Portrait of Axel Munthe with his dogs in the villa San Michele, Capri

Some places captivate the spirit for years, continuing to leave us with beautiful memories. For me, the enchanting island of Capri is one such place. Nine years after my first visit, I finally had the opportunity to return.

Since then, I have often thought of Villa San Michele, a place that has made a lasting impression on my heart. The view there is spectacular, the Mediterranean seems to cast a spell on us.

Breathtaking view of Capri from the villa San Michele

After my first visit, I immediately wanted to read « The Story of San Michele » by Axel Munthe, its creator. He was one of those visionary men who instantly grasp the magic of a place.

The villa, perched at the top of Anacapri, offers a breathtaking panorama of the sea. The gardens, imbued with Munthe’s love for animals, especially birds, nature, and art, are populated with ancient statues, colorful flowers, and majestic trees.

View from the villa San Michele : the Sphinx overlooking a beathtaking view of Capri

This article is intended for all animal lovers who are also aesthetes. Reading the inspiring life of Munthe before visiting Villa San Michele gives a special dimension to the place, turning it into an emotional experience where every corner of the property seems to tell its story. Indeed, Axel Munthe, a Swedish doctor and writer, shaped this place with passion, creating a sort of refuge, a haven of peace where he found serenity after the bustling Neapolitan life he led. See more info by clicking https://www.villasanmichele.eu/

Returning to a place filled with memory is a powerful experience. Munthe, through his writings, had the gift of capturing the essence of life in Capri, the simplicity that prevailed there over a century ago. Revisiting Villa San Michele was more than just a tourist excursion; it was an immersion into a living narrative, an experience that continues to resonate long after leaving this enchanting island.

Axel Munthe's bedroom inside the villa San Michele

I read « The Story of San Michele » in November 2014 right after one of our fabulous trips to Italy and three months after my arrival in Moscow, I still remember an anecdote that struck me. The book fascinated me, and I used to recount parts of it daily to my husband. I particularly remember a moment of great cruelty explained by Munthe. Indeed, the island’s butcher would attract poor quails by blinding them so they would sing and attract others for him to kill.

A few days after reading this story, we received our first invitation from a Russian student’s mother who wanted to meet us, she had prepared a lavish spread and I still see the dish of twelve little quails arriving at the table. The intention was honorable but the dramatic story of the Anacapri butcher who mistreated these poor birds has definitively contributed to my transition from an omnivorous diet to that of a vegetarian. I have never eaten a piece of meat again.

Fortunately, Axel Munthe’s book left me with many other memories, notably the harmony of the place, the story of the peaceful life he led on the island with his animals.

Capri is one of those places you return to, where you never tire of walking around the island. The panoramic views of the Mediterranean are simply extraordinary, evoking a feeling of timeless beauty. The chairlift to Monte Solaro is a must.

The mild climate, so different from the harsh winter of Moscow where I was living when I first visited the island, has won me over. I knew I would return because few places attract us like magnets.

Of course, it is a place that suits me, but its fame shows that many tourists have fallen under its spell. As we discussed in a previous article, you need to know yourself well to choose the stay that will best suit you at a given time.

So let yourself be seduced by this Mediterranean wonder, lose yourself in the island’s paths, watch the beautiful sunsets while drinking a Limoncello, eat Neapolitan pizzas, and let yourself be amazed by so much beauty, by this place where history, nature, and picturesque villages meet to create an unforgettable symphony.

Prefer the quiet months of autumn or spring because the hordes of tourists could steal your enchantment for the island in the blink of an eye.

If you’re eager to explore more about Southern Italy’s captivating regions and the enchanting Isle of Capri, and are looking for an ideal itinerary, be sure to read our article : https://2frogsodyssey.com/this-is-our-itinerary-southern-italy-and-its-wonders/ This piece offers a comprehensive overview of the area’s highlights, providing valuable insights for planning your own memorable journey.

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