This is our itinerary : Southern Italy and its wonders
Brief Itinerary
DAY 1
Arrival at BARI airport, overnight in Bisceglie.
DAY 2
Visit Trani and the Sanctuary of San Michele Arcangelo, overnight in Carpino.
DAY 3
Hiking in the Umbra forest and Vieste, overnight in Carpino.
DAY 4
Visit Mattinata, Vieste, and Peschici, overnight in Carpino.
DAY 5
Visit San Severo, overnight in Anacapri, Isle of Capri.
DAY 6
Walk in the east of Capri, chairlift up to Monte Solaro, visit Villa San Michele, overnight in Anacapri, Isle of Capri.
DAY 7
Visit the gardens of Augustus, overnight in Capri, Anacapri, Isle of Capri.
DAY 8
Ferry and train to Rome, visit the Capitoline Museums, overnight in Rome.
DAY 9
Visit the center of Rome, Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, overnight in Rome.
DAY 10
Visit the Basilica San Pietro in Vincoli, Church of Saint Louis of the French in Rome, Palazzo Altemps, overnight in Rome.
DAY 11
Departure.
Detailed Itinerary
DAY 1 | Arrival in Bari
– Late arrival at Bari airport in Apulia.
– Pick up our rental car at the airport around 11 PM. There’s no need for a spacious car in Italy as some roads or streets are quite narrow, better to be an experienced driver. Head to Bisceglie for the night.
DAY 2 | Towards the Gargano Promontory
Morning
– Quick visit to Bisceglie village then head to Trani to visit the San Nicola Pellegrino Cathedral (12th and 13th century), a true masterpiece of Romanesque art. Its architecture is graceful and pure, with its elegant white silhouette standing out against the azure sky and the nearby Adriatic Sea. It is dedicated to Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim, a young devotee who died of exhaustion on the steps of the church that stood at this location. Visit the historic center.
Afternoon
– Head to Monte Sant’ Angelo to visit the Sanctuary of San Michele Arcangelo.
The octagonal bell tower, erected by Charles I in 1274, makes the sanctuary recognizable. Enter through the UNESCO World Heritage San Michele Basilica, a vestibule leads to a grand staircase descending to the Archangel’s grotto. The church has an imposing bronze door dating from 1076 on its true facade. The interior of the sanctuary, cave-like, has been adapted over the centuries while preserving its naturally irregular vault. Behind the altar, a marble statue of Saint Michael dominates, whose sword is annually removed and paraded in procession through the city.
– Walk around the sanctuary in the « Rione Junno, » a characteristic historic district over 1000 years old. Getting lost in the alleys of this original neighborhood, between breathtaking views and scents of the past, is a unique experience. Monte Sant’Angelo is a film city, chosen by many directors as a filming location. There are many typical desserts to try, including stuffed wafers!
– Arrival in Carpino amidst olive groves. An interesting starting point to visit the surroundings of the Gargano Promontory and hike in the Umbra forest.
DAY 3 | The Umbra Forest and Vieste
Morning
– Hike in the Umbra Forest, a UNESCO heritage since 2017. This forest is unique in Apulia and covers an immense area of 11,000 hectares of valleys, home to a diversity of trees like beech, maple, pine, oak, chestnut, and ancient yews. Recognized for its ecological richness, it was inscribed in 2017 on the UNESCO World Heritage list. It is home to over 60 species of orchids, deer, and various birds of prey. With facilities for visitors, this forest is meticulously preserved.
We walked the 12KM trail from Laghetto d’Umbra to Lago d’Otri 12.7 KM (3 hours) beginner level. The forest is well marked, very pleasant, we spotted deer and squirrels. In season there are 60 species of orchids.
The term « umbra » comes from Latin and means « shadow, » referring to a dense and deep forest where sunlight barely penetrates through the thick foliage of the trees.
Upon arrival, Lago d’Otri is actually a tiny pond of no great interest, ultimately a valid excuse to guide us and walk through this forest of ancient yews.
Afternoon
– Departure to Vieste, a picturesque town located on the tip of the Gargano promontory known for its beautiful beaches, clear waters, and the Pizzomunno, a symbolic limestone monolith on one of its sandy beaches. Its historic center is characterized by narrow streets and traditional houses, with a medieval fortress overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Beautiful walks and panoramic views.
– Road between Vieste and Peschici with beautiful views along the way.
DAY 4 | Mattinata, Vieste, and Peschici
Morning
– Departure to Mattinata to take the scenic road (P 53) between Mattinata and Vieste.
Afternoon
DAY 5 | San Severo, Isle of Capri
Morning
– Departure to San Severo, a beautiful 17th-century city. Its beautiful cobblestone streets, flanked by baroque buildings with elegant lines, make this city a pleasant place to stroll.
Afternoon
– Road to Naples, then ferry to the island of Capri from Porto Beverello. 50 minutes crossing. Arrival by taxi to the hotel in Anacapri.
DAY 6 | East of Capri, Monte Solaro, and Villa San Michele
Morning
– Morning hike towards the center of Capri then via Sopramonte, via Tiberio towards Villa Jovis. Return via Astarita park (very nice views) where goats roam freely.
Afternoon
– Head to Anacapri, Piazza della Pace, chairlift to Monte Solaro, breathtaking views from its 589m height.
– Visit Villa San Michele, Axel Munthe’s villa, author of the book of the same name, where he expresses his love for animals, the villa, and medicine click here to know more about the villa. Click here to journey through the rich narrative of Villa San Michele and uncover the secrets of its allure : https://2frogsodyssey.com/returning-to-capri-axel-munthes-secret-paradise/
DAY 7 | Gardens of Augustus and Anacapri
Morning
– Direction to the center of Capri, hike via Matermania towards the natural arch. Trail along the coast by grotta di Massulo and Villa Malaparte (filming location for the movie « Contempt » by Jean-Luc Godard with the beautiful Brigitte Bardot), Tragara viewpoint, then Gardens of Augustus. Beautiful panoramic views from the gardens. Via Krupp and return to the city center.
Afternoon
– Visit Anacapri
DAY 8 | En route to Rome, Capitoline Museums
Morning
– Ferry to Naples then train to Rome.
Afternoon
– Visit the Capitoline Museums, one of the oldest public museums in the world and amust-see for art and history enthusiasts. Among these treasures, you will find: the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, the remains of Constantine’s Colossus, the Capitoline wolf, collections of Greek and Roman art as well as the Capitoline Art Galleries with paintings by masters such as Caravaggio, Titian, and Rubens. For an in-depth exploration of the Capitoline Museums, a treasure trove of ancient art and history in the heart of Rome, follow this link : https://museicapitolini.org/en . Here, you’ll find a wealth of information about their remarkable collections, history, and the unforgettable experiences they offer.
DAY 9 | Center of Rome and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj
Morning
– Chiesa del Gesù: visit this superb 16th-century baroque church, a key monument of the Counter-Reformation decorated in an extravagant baroque style, including the frescoes by Baciccia celebrating « The Triumph of the Name of Jesus ». The Saint Ignatius chapel, work of the Jesuit brother Andrea Pozzo, offers exceptional decorative richness, paying tribute to the glory of the Church and God.
– Visit the Pantheon: a marvel of Antiquity that stands proudly under the Roman sky as a testament to the architectural ingenuity of the era. Upon entering, you are immediately struck by the circular opening at the top – the oculus – which filters a divine beam of light, animating the sacred atmosphere of the place.
Inside, the Pantheon holds historical treasures, the most moving of which is undoubtedly the tomb of Raphael. The artist, whose works adorn the palaces and churches of Rome, lies there in simplicity contrasting with the opulence of his paintings. Under the majestic dome, visitors can also admire the tombs of kings and the remarkable echo of this temple turned church.
The Pantheon is an experience of historical continuity, where art and architecture invite reflection and contemplation. A place where the past meets eternity, where each stone seems to tell a thousand-year-old story.
Afternoon
– Then we walked towards Castel Sant’Angelo, the esplanade of Saint Peter’s Basilica, Piazza del Popolo, and Piazza di Spagna, followed by a visit to Palazzo Doria Pamphilj.
– Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is a baroque oasis in the heart of Rome and a window open to the grandeur of the past. Its walls house an unparalleled art collection, with works by Velázquez and Caravaggio attracting connoisseurs from around the world. Do not miss the striking portrait of Innocent X by Velázquez, which alone justifies the visit. This palace is not just a gallery, but a page of history, inviting visitors to stroll in the footsteps of Roman nobility.
DAY 10 | Basilica San Pietro in Vincoli, Church of Saint-Louis-des-Français in Rome, Palazzo Altemps
Morning
– I could not leave Rome without revisiting Michelangelo’s Moses, which had so fascinated me during my first visit to this exceptional city. Destination: Basilica San Pietro in Vincoli, famous for housing Michelangelo’s Moses, an imposing sculpture that captures the entire force of the biblical prophet. Built to guard the chains that bound Saint Peter, this church is captivating with its mix of sacred history and Renaissance art. A peaceful place, often less frequented, but with an artistic richness that deserves attention.
– Then we went to Piazza Navona, one of the most famous baroque urban spaces in Rome. With its sculptural fountains, including the majestic Fountain of the Four Rivers by Bernini, and its vibrant atmosphere, it offers a window into Roman art and social life. A fascinating meeting place, combining architectural beauty and cultural effervescence.
– Lovers of Caravaggio, I could not forego visiting the Church of Saint Louis of the French in Rome, a sanctuary dedicated to art and faith, known for its three Caravaggio paintings, treasures of the Contarelli Chapel. An essential spot for baroque art enthusiasts and a meeting point for the French community in the city.
Afternoon
– Finally, “last but not least”: Palazzo Altemps. This museum captivates with its collection of ancient sculptures, including the emblematic Ludovisi Gaul. This palace, rich in history, is a refined setting for artworks that tell centuries of civilization. Visiting this place is to walk through time in an atmosphere of elegance and culture.
DAY 11 | Departure